Moldovan wine

Moldova is quickly establishing itself on the world wine map. And for good reason.   

The cool climate in Moldova is perfect for producing elegant reds and crisp, aromatic whites – whether from indigenous varieties or from international stars like Cabernet Sauvignon and Pinot Grigio. And because land is relatively cheap here, its wines offer great-value alternatives to other classic world regions.  

Plus, it has a long and fascinating winemaking history. In fact, it’s believed that indigenous people used grapes to make wines as early as 3,000 BC – impressive, especially when you consider the size of this tiny country.  

Winemaking has always been an important part of life in Moldova. After all, there are more vines per capita here than anywhere else in the world. 150,000 hectares are used to produce wine – but despite this, Moldovan wine often doesn’t get the spotlight it deserves … especially when compared to nearby Bulgaria and Hungary. Even prominent wine critic Hugh Johnson believes that Moldova is a country with “the most vines and most potential”.  

In fact, wine is such a pivotal part of Moldova’s culture that, ever since it gained independence in 1991, it celebrates Ziua Nationala a Vinului (National Wine Day). This happens every year on the second weekend in October – right after the end of a vintage. 

Moldova is a haven for fresh, fruity wines … and it’s not only the ancient vineyards that play a part in this.

• Moldova is on the same latitude as the renowned French wine regions of Burgundy and Bordeaux – so it’s perfect for elegant reds and crisp fruity whites
• Crystal clear skies – there’s no pollution here, so you get really pure fruit flavours
• Dark and rich black soils (all organic) make it easy to grow grapes – resulting in really affordable, great value wines
• Black-sea influenced climate is good for popular cool climate varieties like Pinot Grigio and Sauvignon Blanc  

These conditions, combined with low hills, strong winds that keep the vines healthy, and flowing rivers offer the perfect conditions for high quality grapes with an intensity of flavour to thrive.  

So good is the wine here, that during the 18th and 19th centuries, when under USSR control, Moldovan wine was known as the “wine of the Tsars”.   

Before the late 19th century, the main grape varieties in Moldova were traditional local ones:

• Rara Neagră
• Plavai
• Galbena
• Zghiharda
• Batuta Neagră
• Fetească Albă
• Fetească Neagră
• Tămâioasa
• Cabasia   

But there were also plantings of indigenous Hungarian, Bulgarian, Greek, and Turkish varieties.  

The Phylloxera outbreak at the end of the 19th century destroyed many vines … but under Soviet control, Moldova’s vineyards were vastly expanded. Vine replanting started again in 1906, and by 1914, Moldova had the biggest vineyard area in the Russian Empire.   

During the second half of the 19th century, newly introduced French varieties were intensely planted, including:

• Pinot Blanc
• Pinot Noir
• Pinot Gris
• Cabernet Sauvignon
• Sauvignon Blanc
• Gamay
• Muscat Blanc
• Aligoté

There are several key wine regions in Moldova.  

Balti (the northern zone): This is the smallest zone in Moldova. Vineyards here are mainly known for Cognac and fortified wines. Whites made here are generally from local varieties, as well as Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling, Chardonnay and Pinot Grigio.  

Codru (the central zone): The continental climate of this region favours the cultivation of white grapes – most are local varieties, alongside Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Riesling. These whites are soft and fresh with pronounced floral aromas.  

Some of the country’s most famous wine cellars are found in this region:

• Milestii Mici – the world’s largest wine cellar, believed to house 1.5 million bottles of wine
• Cricova – the second largest underground wine cellar in the world
• Brăneşti – extends over 70km and is located in an old limestone mine  

Nistreana or Dniester (south-eastern zone): This region stretches along the Western Dniester coast and has a continental climate, benefitting from cooling breezes that flow from the Black Sea. Red grapes like Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and the local Rara Neagră really thrive here.   

Cahul (southern zone): This region has warm, dry summers and short, mild winters … so it’s often compared to the Mediterranean. Vineyards in this area are at slightly higher altitudes – between 280 – 300 metres above sea level. Most are located on the slopes of the Nistru and Prut river valleys. This area of the Moldova is much drier than other parts of the country, with a large portion of sandy and clay soils. These soil types allow for a higher concentration of sugar in the grapes. Red grapes like Pinot Noir, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon thrive here, producing full-bodied wines with concentrated aromas.

Moldova is best known for the wines it produces with European grapes, namely:  

Merlot: Produces full-bodied, sumptuous and smooth wines, brimming with red berry and dark fruit flavours, pepper and smoked spice.   

Cabernet Sauvignon: One of the world’s most popular red varieties, this grape thrives in the warmer areas of Moldova, such as Nistreana and Cahul. Expect full-bodied wines with concentrated black fruit flavours and subtle hints of spice.  

Chardonnay: An incredibly versatile grape that can produce a range of styles. Moldovan Chardonnay is balanced and fresh, with pronounced aromatic complexity and a mineral structure that will leave you wanting more.  

Sauvignon Blanc: This grape excels in the cooler areas of Moldova, such as Balti and Codru. Wines are typically vibrant, refreshing, with high acidity and tropical fruit flavours.  

Pinot Grigio: Moldova’s cool climate vineyards encourage Pinot Grigio grapes to thrive … creating crisp and aromatic white wines. Expect plenty of bright citrus notes and lightly tropical aromas.   

Rară Neagră: This indigenous grape translates to “rare black” in English. It’s originally from Romania, but is grown throughout Moldova, especially in the Nistreana region. It produces deep red wines with dark berry fruit flavours and a black pepper finish.   

Fetească Neagră: This is another indigenous grape variety that is considered to make some of the top red Romanian wines. Typical characteristics of Fetească Neagră wines are spicy, with smoky fruit characters and good tannin structure. A real gastronomic wine.

Well … the style of wine you’re drinking depends on what foods would pair well.  

Chardonnay: Moldovan Chardonnay is known for its citrus fruit and zingy freshness. It’s ideal for solo sipping, but pairs well with chicken or creamy pasta.  

Sauvignon Blanc: Single varietal Sauvignon Blanc wines, or blends with native grapes, are fragrant, vibrant and deliciously crisp. Make sure you chill and serve alongside fish or light dishes.   

Cabernet Sauvignon: Sumptuous and full-bodied, Cabernet Sauvignon should be enjoyed with a juicy rib-eye steak, warming casserole, or cheeseboard.