Greek wine

Anyone who remembers the 1970s may well associate Greek wine with Retsina. This unique wine has been made in Greece for over 2,000 years and gets its distinctive flavour from the pine resin added during fermentation. Retsina is certainly not to everyone’s taste – but is one of those wines that can be absolutely perfect on the right occasion. Served stone cold on a hot summer’s day, with classic Mediterranean seafood dishes such as crispy fried calamari it can be wonderfully refreshing. While Retsina is still made and enjoyed widely in Greece, other wines are coming more to the fore as the traditional wines. Dine at a restaurant in Greece today and you’re more likely to be offered the white wine Assyrtiko, from the island of Santorini, or the red Xinomavro, from Naoussa, in the north of the country.

Thanks to its popularity with holiday makers, Greek wine is no longer associated mainly with pine scented Retsina (as good as that can be on the right occasion). A number of grapes and regions stand out as producing the best and most popular wines of the country.

• Assyrtiko – Greece’s most famous white grape is originally from Santorini, the beautiful Aegean island famed for its traditional white buildings and volcanic black sand beaches. However, it is now grown all over the country and produces some of the country’s finest whites. In Santorini it produces lean, mineral, and citrus-charged whites – but elsewhere in Greece it can show more primary fruit flavours. Some are even oak aged – adding richness and toasty vanilla notes to the wine.
• Agiorgitiko – in contrast to Xinomavro, this classic Greek red grape produces rich, full-bodied reds, with red and black fruits, and notes of the local Mediterranean herbs. If you like good Merlot – but fancy something a bit bigger and bolder with more savoury complexity – Agiorgitiko is a great wine to try. The most famous examples come from Nemea, in Peloponnesia – Greece’s most important red wine region.
• Xinomavro – arguably Greece’s best red grape variety, often compared to Burgundy’s Pinot Noir, or even Barolo’s Nebbiolo. Xinomavro tends to be medium bodied but with a wonderful combination of freshness and intense red fruit – backed by a subtle but distinctive umami note (think marmite or black olive tapenade). The most famous examples come from Naoussa, in northern Greece – but good Xinomavro is by no means confined to this region.   
• Mavrodaphne – a popular red grape from Peloponnesia and Kefalonia that has until recently been used mostly for sweet red wines. Winemakers are starting to see its potential for quality dry reds – especially when blended with Agiorgitiko. One to watch.

The short answer is … yes!

However, despite a winemaking history going back 24 centuries, Greek wine hasn’t always been celebrated as much as it is today. The country certainly has ideal growing conditions (a Mediterranean climate and plenty of hilly vineyard sites) but has only recently begun to fully realise its potential.

Today, the country produces a wide range of excellent whites and reds, from its many unique indigenous grape varieties. Dive into elegant reds like Xinomavro from Naoussa, rich full-bodied reds like Agiorgitiko from Nemea, or exhilaratingly fresh whites like Assyrtiko from Santorini – and discover these underrated Greek treasures for yourself.

Greece’s delicious indigenous wines have become increasingly popular with the many tourists that flock to the region each year. So it’s perhaps not surprising that they work beautifully with the local food specialities. Here are some food pairing suggestions for the best-known Greek wine styles:

• Assyrtiko – typically a lean, fresh, and minerally style of white, Assyrtiko is a perfect fit with Greece’s many seafood specialities. Try with grilled octopus or shrimp Saganaki (shrimp in a seafood sauce). It’s also great with vegetarian dishes such as spanakopita, or with simple grilled white fish. An oak aged Assyrtiko will typically be richer in style – perfect for sauced white meat dishes or even moussaka.
• Agiorgitiko – rich and smooth with juicy red and black berry fruit, Agiorgitiko is delicious with rich meat dishes. If you want to be authentically Greek, a lamb kleftiko would be spot on – slow cooked lamb that’s so tender it falls off the bone. Braised lamb shanks would of course work just as well. It’ll also go down a treat at a barbecue.
• Xinomavro – a medium bodied red with juicy red fruit and lovely freshness, Xinomavro will make a great partner to chicken dishes – from a plain roast to a herby casserole. It’ll also pair beautifully with fatty meats such as lamb or goose, as its acidity will cut through the fat and allow its fruity flavours to really shine. Xinomavro’s distinctive umami taste also makes it a good match for a wild mushroom risotto.