Cinsault

This red grape can be spelt Cinsault or Cinsaut; both are pronounced: San-so.

Left to its own devices, Cinsault vines naturally produces large bunches of big grapes – no wonder, then, that in Chile its nickname is ‘cargadora’, the loaded one! For that reason, it was popular with growers in the old days when they were paid by weight, not for the quality.

It’s also been popular worldwide as it takes high temperatures in its stride, isn’t too fussed by drought, and ripens early, before the risk of frost. Although the grape itself is dark skinned, its wines are light in colour, turning quickly to a brick red, rather than intense scarlet. Producing wines with low tannins and acidity, these are generally not for long ageing – on average about 5 years maximum for reds, 2 years for its pretty rosés. There are, of course, always maverick producers that make wines that are exceptions.

Cinsault wines are known for their low tannins, softness and attractive floral aromas and delicate spice-like perfume, with red fruit notes. You’ll spot that in the fine rosés it makes, especially the ones from Provence – one place where this grape has a strong following. Bandol is one of its most prestigious haunts.

When the grapes are grown on old, low-yielding vines, the wine can take on more gamey, savoury flavours, with darker fruit.

Cinsault originates from the south of France, in the Languedoc-Roussillon region where it still thrives. It also enjoys conditions in Provence and the southern Rhône – in total, taking up 39% of the world’s Cinsault vineyards.

Its next biggest hotspot is South Africa, and Swartland in particular, where it accounts for 31% of the world’s plantings. In fact, during the 1960s and 1970s, Cinsault was South Africa’s most planted red grape. It produced all sorts of wine – from cheap reds to brandy – and, as a result, had a poor reputation. Back then, it was also called Hermitage, and in 1925, it was crossed with Pinot Noir to create Pinotage, a variety that has now overtaken Cinsault popularity in the Cape. Today, old, low-yielding Cinsault produces some seriously attractive wines there, reds and rosés, but rarely feature solo.

North Africa’s heat poses no problem for Cinsault either. Algeria was another place that churned out large volume, characterless red wines for much of the 20th century and severely diminished Cinsault’s standing in the wine world. 

Ditto for Morocco and Tunisia. It was adopted in Lebanon as well (6% of world vineyards) and has gained some serious kudos, largely thanks to some exceptional producers, low yields and great winemaking. It’s key in the Bekaa Valley and its wines are well worth looking out for. As the late Serge Hochar, founder of the famous Château Musar, said “If I could have only one grape variety in the Bekaa Valley, it would be Cinsault.”

Rarely seen in wines in the UK, Chile is the third largest Cinsault destination with 18% of the total. But the badge for the oldest Cinsault vine goes to Lodi in the States – there’s a vine still thriving there that was planted in 1886. The US has 5% of world plantings, with most growing within or close to Lodi.

Cinsault’s pretty pinks are best served chilled, but not ice cold. Cinsault reds – nearly always blends, apart from maybe in Lebanon – vary in style, but mostly are ideal at room-temperature. Temperature sorted, here are some tasty food suggestions:

• Solo glass – Cinsault’s delicate rosés make a great aperitif or glass in a sunny garden.
• Chicken – whether your bottle of Cinsault is delicate pink or red, it will make a good match to chicken … as a partner to interesting salads (smoked chicken salad perhaps) for the rosé, or roast chicken when it comes to its silky, midweight reds.
• Salmon – only advisable for its fresh pinks.
• Escargots – with lashings of garlic butter, a good choice with Cinsault rosé or its lighter reds.
• Roasted/grilled vegetables – roasted with herbs and olive oil, these tasty veggies will make a great food partner to Cinsault either in its pink guise or as a midweight red, say from the Languedoc. The herbal notes of the wine picking out those from the veg. Add a bit of rice and feta to make a complete dish.
• Lamb – when Cinsault is blended with a number of its southern French partners – Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre and Carignan – it often makes a more serious red, like Gigondas, Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Rasteau and friends. All these wines are a dream with roast, grilled or barbecued lamb.
• Cheese – try a Cinsault red with Comté or a Tomme; Cinsault rosé is a dream with fresh creamy cheeses, including goat’s.

Serving Cinsault will all come down to wine style.

Most of its wines are a blend with Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre or Carignan – usually a mix of a number of them – and makes warming, ripe, velvety reds, with the other grapes providing colour, depth of fruit and structure (tannins that give the wine a bit of shape). Light to midweight versions can be enjoyed just cool, whereas more serious, weighty versions, like the southern Rhône’s Châteauneuf-du-Pape, need to be room temperature and in some cases benefit from cellaring.

Cinsault makes delightful rosé wines, with gentle berry fruit and a savoury edge. These need an hour in the fridge to chill them down.