R López de Heredia Viña Bosconia Reserva 2009

Founded in 1877, in Haro, close to the famous railway station, López de Heredia is “one of the last great bastions of Rioja tradition” (Hugh Johnson). As critic Luis Gutiérrez wrote, “visiting the winery is like time travelling to 100 years ago, with no stainless steel or new oak to be found anywhere”. The estate is a cathedral to wine and tradition. In the vineyard, they've stuck fast to the old ways of farming, so sustainability is simply the norm. Unusually for Rioja, all the grapes are estate grown, from one of four extensive vineyards, each wine named after its individual plot. In this case, El Bosque. While their famous Viña Tondonia is all about elegance and nuance, Viña Bosconia is riper and more powerful. Open early and decant.