Pierre Brecht Riesling 2023

At last, Riesling is back in fashion. It's long overdue. The grape produces such an array of styles, but all with riveting freshness. It is renowned in Germany, Austria and the New World, but many forget that this variety produces some of its finest wines in Alsace, eastern France. Steep slopes, abundant sunshine (the sunniest spot in all France) and the Vosges mountains all lend the region’s wines a pristine freshness (whatever the sweetness – and they do vary from lusciously honeyed to bone dry), amazing intensity and purity of fruit. This is an elegant white from the Gisselbrecht family’s 350-year-old cellar, today run by brothers Philippe and Claude. With apple notes and lime zip, this white is ideal with fish pie or crab soufflé.