[February 20, 2023]

Alessandro Gallici - The crazy visionary

We first met Alessandro Gallici – ‘Galli’ to his friends – in 2002, when he was winemaker at a big winery in Friuli, north-east of Venice. His friend Franco Canciani was export manager. When the bosses of that business later overreached themselves and it ceased trading, Galli and Franco called our Italian buyer Thomas and asked if we’d back them starting up on their own. Just the wine people. 

Thomas knew Galli was the talent all along, and said “Yes”. So started a long-running and successful relationship. They are eternally grateful to us for giving them a chance … and that’s reflected in their prices. 

Galli lives in a tiny village with only eight other inhabitants, but a lot of donkeys, horses and wildlife. 22 years married without, as he says, the blessing of any children. He volunteers at the local ‘seniors’ university’ holding wine classes about the importance of quality over quantity. He’s also a cycling nut, obsessed by the legendary Marco Pantani – the greatest climbing specialist the sport has known. Galli rebuilds and curates a collection of his hero’s bikes, for the Pantani family.

How did Visionario get its name?

So mountains play a big role in his life, but so too does the nearby coast. 

“I love Venice a lot, a place where I start walking without a target, looking to get lost … is the best way to find amazing places, like a local bacaro.  When they discover where I come from and what I do for living: long discussions happen … they love Friulian wines”.   

Mostly he dreams of fresh-grilled fish, preferably in his favourite, simple little restaurant in the small fishing village of Marano Lagunare, right at the top of the Adriatic. Served with his Visionario white, of course! 

Visionario was the first wine we did together, named after Alessandro. The name wasn’t his idea. “So you’re a visionary?” we asked. “No, I’m not ... round here, that’s what they call crazy people, who see mad visions. Franco chose the name!”   

His great wine is a clever blend of six different grapes, the majority being the local grape Friuliano. Then Sauvignon Blanc imparts green-fruited notes, Chardonnay adds ripe citrus and late-harvested Gewürztraminer lends delicate perfume and an ever-so-subtle kiss of sweetness. Altogether a clever marriage of local and international grapes from Friuli and Venezie. 

 Sound similar to Luigi Felluga’s legendary Terre Alte? Which sells for over £50 a bottle. In fact, Galli sources his grapes from the same, hallowed hill – and has to be buzzed-in through the gates of the Felluga Estate to get to it.   

Master of Wine Julia Harding calls it “totally Italian and Venetian. Juicy, fresh, and complex.” Decanter magazine reckons it “fresh and bright with a rich core of stone fruits, honey and hay … apple and citrus … Gewürztraminer’s signature floral rose notes shine”.

Fruili, a private corner of Italy

Anyway, Thomas and Galli bonded over that first wine and our Thomas remembers being taken through big tastings of new vintage Pinot Grigio ... 60-plus samples of just-fermented wine in various cloudy shades – some pink-hued (Pinot Grigio is not a white grape, it’s ‘grey’ or pink, however most PG these days is very white … but the best and most concentrated are always a darker shade of white). We really love that grape and what producers like Jermann and Felluga do with their versions … though theirs go for very high prices. Ours doesn’t. Friendships count around here.   

I did learn from them about Friuli as a region and how special it was – closer to Slovenia in many ways. Alessandro once joked they aren’t like normal Italians, the emotional ones, and that on Christmas Day his mother and father shake hands. At least I think he was joking. Certainly a very distinct part of Italy with its own identity ... and little known to most Brits. The mountains, green landscape, restaurants that aren’t really like Italian restaurants ... less ‘pasta and pizza’ more ‘alpine’ … and that lovely local dried ham after tastings – the famous Prosciutto di San Daniele. A reward for tasting all those tanks.

Thomas and Galli remain in long-distant touch, both being into bikes … so they follow each other on an ‘app’ called Strava? 

When you ask Galli if he comes from a family of winemakers, he laughs gently at the notion. Not at all, but his family had a bit of land in Friuli, with a few rows of vines that had been theirs for generations. They made a simple wine for their own dinner table and making this from an early age fascinated Galli and wine became his chosen career.

Pass the Prosecco, and more fashionable fizz

For his fizz Galli uses carefully selected Glera – the Prosecco grape – but adds a good drop of Chardonnay. In Champagne, this would add to the price, but here in the Veneto this addition means it can’t be labelled Prosecco, but frizzante. Whatever it’s called, it delivers citrus and tropical fruit with gentle bubbles. Enjoy it as a mouthwatering aperitif, or with fresh seafood dishes like mussels fra diavolo, grilled calamari, or herb-roasted branzino. 

Many are unfamiliar with this private corner of Italy. Producers like Jermann and Felluga have very high prices. Alessandro knows exactly where and from whom to buy grapes and is there competing with these famous names but keeps his costs low. And ... just quietly ... is doing something every bit as special. 

Find Galli’s Visionario wines here or meet him in person at our London Wine Festival in May 2024.