Melon de Bourgogne

Melon de Bourgogne, referred to sometimes simply as Melon, is the key grape of Muscadet. In fact, it’s the only grape permitted in this appellation of the Loire’s Nantais district. Why such an unusual name? The grape was originally grown in Burgundy and its leaves are said to be rounded, like a melon … so only one name would do!

As its name would suggest, this grape originated in Burgundy (Bourgogne) but was banned by the Dukes of Burgundy in the very early 1700s – they viewed the vine as overproductive and its wines with little flavour – and summarily ordered its uprooting.

Almost at the same time, the Loire, closest to the western Atlantic coast, was hit by an extreme winter, so severe that most of its vineyards perished. A new, hardier variety was sought and, as luck would have it, a monk on a donkey appeared with some cuttings of a hardier variety called Melon de Bourgogne and it was readily adopted by relieved viticulteurs.  

DNA testing shows that it is a crossing of Pinot Blanc and Gouais Blanc. It buds early and vigorously, so even if frost strikes, the vine has time, on occasion, to rebud. 

In Muscadet, the wine is often aged ‘sur lie’ – on its lees – which lends a roundness to its texture and creaminess to its style, but it will never be a big, opulent wine.  

Nearly all Muscadet is made for drinking young, in the first couple of years post vintage. However, there are a handful of producers who have experimented with their old, low-yield Melon de Bourgogne vines and have made wines that age beautifully. One to try is Pierre-Henri Gadais Monopole Les Perrières 2018 which has been long aged in oak and vat, before bottling.

Melon de Bourgone has a low-profile personality, but carefully vinified produces a white with high acidity, a relatively neutral flavour (not punchy and super-aromatic like New Zealand Sauvignon), with subtle hints of pear, apple, lemon and a touch of blossom. Above all it boasts an edge of saline freshness.

A term often found on the label ‘sur lie’ means ‘aged on its lees’ – the dead yeast cells left in a wine after fermentation. This process lends a subtle creamy weight and roundness to this crisp white.

Learn more about reading wine labels. 

Most Muscadets you come across are crisp and citrusy, with subtle apple and pear notes, often with a sea breeze freshness. Not surprising when the grapes are grown so close to the Atlantic. The wines have a minerality too.

Oak rarely comes into it – these are wines for drinking young, in the first couple of years after vintage. Bucking the trend, however, are a handful of producers who go for a more serious style, using low-yield, intensely flavoured grapes, sometimes maturing the wine in barrel, and making a white that can be aged. They can develop a lovely roundness, creaminess, and nuttiness, but these wines will never be big on opulent fruit. They are subtle and nuanced, perhaps closest to a Burgundy. And definitely worth a try.

Nearly all of the 8,200 hectares of Melon de Bourgogne – 98% of the world’s total – is grown on the western edge of the Loire, in Muscadet. In 1939, cuttings were taken to the United States and a few hectares can be found today in Oregon, but very little.  

Sèvre-et-Maine in the Loire’s Pays Nantais produces the finest and best-known Muscadet/ Melon de Bourgogne, grown on its granitic soils between the two main rivers in this part of the Loire – the Sèvre and the Maine.  

Côtes de Grandlieu is another to look out for.

Nearly all Melon wines are best served well chilled, although not ice cold, or you will taste nothing of their subtle character. They make a very refreshing glass on their own, but also, with their excellent freshness, are great to match with food. Seafood is a classic; salads too  or a creamy choucroute – a savoury éclair with a creamy filling.

As 98% of Melon is Muscadet, we will discuss here what you might serve with this crisp, Loire white. Chill your young Muscadet whites down well, then sip and enjoy. Here are some suggestions:

• Solo glass – with all its freshness, it makes a great aperitif to wake up the taste buds.
• Seafood – not surprisingly as the Muscadet appellation lies so close to the ocean, it goes very well with seafood, particularly crustaceans. It’s a no-brainer with oysters, moules marinières, prawns, garlic snails, and also simple white fish dishes, grilled or panfried with a squeeze of lemon. 
• Rice dishes – like stuffed peppers or a herby vegetable pilaf will be enhanced by the lemony freshness of Muscadet.
• Cheese – try with soft, creamy cheeses, the grape’s natural acidity cutting through the creaminess of the cheese

Discover more food and wine pairings tips.