For a dazzling fresh, dry white with a hint of spice and weight, check out this fabulous Grüner. It’s from one of the top cellars in Austria, using a grape described as “the best kept secret of the wine world”. Smoky spice, white pepper and quince.
This wine is named Himmelstiege – ‘stairway to heaven’ – in recognition of the steepness of the vineyards from where the grapes are sourced. Why’s that important? It makes the vines work hard to find water and nutrients, and produces wine with a wonderful mineral intensity. This 2018 is from Domäne Wachau – a cellar established 300 years ago. In 2004 the winemaker Heinz Frischengrüber and winery manager Roman Horvath MW introduced a new regime and quality has since soared. Jancis Robinson MW named them as “one of the best co-ops in the world”. Their focus is the Wachau region, from where most of Austria’s finest wines hail. This classic Grüner has bright acidity underlying the peppery, ripe peach notes. Delicious on its own or with goulash.
"This classy white makes clear why this grape is one of the ‘best kept secrets of the wine world’"
Kirsten Willis Buyer for Austria