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Last Night's Wine
Violette de Mireval rosé
Published: May 02, 2025
Tony Laithwaite
Last night we had another light rosé – in style, as well as alcohol – from the same area of south-central France as last week’s Aura hails from. Called Violette de Mireval. Its story has two threads which span the world and come together to make a wine we love.
I spent a lot of my youth driving between Bordeaux and the Midi - or Languedoc/ Roussillon if you want to be precise. Halfway between lies Toulouse, where I would stop and buy its red wine. Negrette is the local grape that’s adapted itself to the region’s conditions. It was always one of the red wines I bought. Until along comes this upstart American winemaker, called Nicole McPheeters.
And she’s the other half of the story. I met her when visiting our RedHeads Australia winery. She had just crawled out of a tank. And it showed. Drenched in wine. Not a good look for a girl’s first meeting with her boss, but she didn’t seem to care.
So, I asked how she’d got there. She told me her story, and I was impressed. Not half as impressed as our buyer and winemaker Mark Hoddy. He went and married her. But that’s another story, although it is relevant.
She comes from Arizona. Not a big wine producing state, though there are good wineries and young Nicole worked in one before deciding to do her Master’s in winemaking. However, the university wasn’t one conveniently located in the States, like Davis, California but in Adelaide, Australia. This showed she was smart - Australia is cutting edge - and ambitious. She did her 2-year course and qualified with top honours. We, Laithwaites, through our Australian winery RedHeads are close to the faculty, they know us well, and that we offer graduates not only very hands-on work and a chance to create something themselves but also a chance to work for our other operations in Europe. So, they sent us top-of-the-class Nicole and we stuck her in a tank to get wet and bedraggled. No better way to start; sorts the men and women from the boys and girls.
Nicole stuck it out, did her stint; then we said we needed her in Europe. She didn’t seem fazed…did a stint in our Bordeaux Chai OK winery, where she met Mark. When we moved Mark down to Pézenas to focus on Midi wines she went too. They got married despite the Covid lockdown and she, being still the independent sort, got a job in a winery near Toulouse.
Are you still with me?
She reckoned the Negrette from the district of Mireval in Fronton, could make a great rosé.
Nobody else did but she stuck to her guns and when we tasted it, we bought it. And voila! Last night Barbara and I had some, and it was lovely. Provence roses are reliable. But this is a bit more inspired. It has similar flavours but with more depth. Do try it.
She’s tidied herself up a lot… now prefers barrels to tanks.
About the author
Tony Laithwaite
Founder of Laithwaites in 1969 and co-founder of The Sunday Times Wine Club in 1973, Tony Laithwaite has, during his nearly 60-year career, led the way in many fields. He has discovered new wine regions, founded the ‘Flying Winemaker’ movement, been the first or one of the first to import wines from Bulgaria, Moldova, Australia, New Zealand, Czech Republic – the list is long.
From the start, Tony has wanted his customers to share the magic of wine. He’s achieved that largely through the written word, the stories - and occasionally at wine shows. He regards as one of his greatest achievements the championing of Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux by buying his own château… proving its wines to be at least equal to Saint-Émilion Grands Crus Classés next door.
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For over 50 years, we've gone off the beaten track to bring you great bottles from independent wineries around the world. We taste over 40,000 bottles a year to find the 800 or so that make the final cut. Juicy reds, refreshing whites, tasty rosés, thrilling fizz - you'll find all sorts of hidden gems in our handpicked wine collection.