A beginner's guide to the wines of Puglia

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A beginner's guide to the wines of Puglia

What kind of wine is Puglia known for?

Puglia produces a range of wine styles – including whites and rosés. But the vast majority (80%) are reds – made in a big bold style that has really caught on with UK wine fans.

Not so long ago, this part of southern Italy (on the ‘heel’ of Italy’s ‘boot’) was a bit of a wild west. Despite the fact that Puglia was producing 17% of all Italian wine (the largest output of any Italian wine region), its wines were little known in the UK. According to rumour, back in the 1970’s, these rich reds sometimes found their way up north, where they were surreptitiously used to add depth to the wines from more prestigious regions.

But Puglia’s reds began to shine in their own light after Tony Laithwaite visited the region in the 1990s – and was amazed by the quality and value on offer. Back then, the locals were distrustful of outsiders, but Tony persisted, and soon found someone who shared his ambition – Angelo Maci.

Angelo had set up a winery to support the many small family grape growers in his little corner of Puglia – and Tony was bowled over by his wines. His deep, soulful red Pillastro is made in the classic Puglian style – full-bodied and packed with dark, smoky fruit. It was an instant hit with our customers and has been a firm favourite hit ever since.

Since then, we’ve uncovered many more deep, rich reds from Puglia. You can find our full selection of Puglia reds here.

Primitivo

Primitivo has been the centre of controversy over the last couple of decades, due to a debate that was finally settled in the garden of an elderly lady in Croatia. The question was whether Italy’s humble Primitivo variety was identical to Zinfandel – a grape revered in the United States and considered by American winemakers to be unique to California.

DNA testing has now conclusively proven that both varieties can be traced back to a venerable 90-year-old vine grown by an equally venerable Croatian lady. Which means Puglian Primitivo is a great-value alternative to the pricy Zinfandels of the Golden State.

In warmer areas (like sunny Puglia), Primitivo makes rich, smooth reds with flavours of blackberry, anise, pepper, and spice. They’re perfect as winter warmers, but equally good on a sunny day with the smoky flavours of a barbecue.

Negroamaro

In Italian, Negroamaro means literally ‘black’ and 'bitter'. However, the grape is of Greek origin (the Greeks occupied Puglia for over a thousand years), and in Greek ‘amaro’ means black. So, its name may equally well come from the Greek for ‘blackest of the black’.

One thing we know for sure is that Negroamaro makes some of the best wines of southern Italy. It flourishes in the south of Puglia, especially in Salice Salentino, Squinzano and Copertino, where it is often blended with a little Malvasia Nera or Sangiovese.

Negroamaro wines can vary from silky, fruity, easy-drinking reds to more serious, aged oak examples. Typical flavours include dark plums, herbs, and smoky notes.

Nero di Troia

Nero di Troia (aka Uvo di Troia) is one of Puglia’s finest red grape varieties. It is a speciality of the Puglian sub-region of Castel del Monte DOC, where it is often blended with Aglianico and other varieties in the region’s sought-after reds.

The grape is named after the town of Troia, which is said to have been founded by the Greek hero Diomedes – famous for helping to defeat the city of Troy in Asia Minor. (Yes, Nero di Troia really is that old!). It typically produces wines with juicy red and black berry fruit and notes of violets and cloves.

What are the main regions of Puglia?

The catch-all appellation for the wines of Puglia is Puglia IGT. If you’re looking for great value reds that deliver amazing flavour for money, this is a great place to start. However, Puglia is also home to number of noteworthy sub-regions – each with their own distinctive character. Here are a few of the most noteworthy examples:

Castel del Monte

Castel del Monte lies in the north of Puglia, takes its name from the imposing 13th century ‘castle on the hill’ that overlooks the region. It produces big, rich spicy reds, made mostly from the from the Nero di Troia and Aglianico grape varieties.

Squinzano and Copertino

These two Puglian regions lie closer to the tip of Italy’s heel, where cooling ocean breezes temper the heat of the southern sun. Negroamaro is king here – producing dark, smoky black reds. It is often blended with another local star, Malvasia Nera, giving the wines a softer, silkier texture.

Salento

Salento lies next door to Squinzano on the tip of Italy’s heel – but across the other side on the eastern coast. The most popular red grapes here are Primitivo and Negroamaro – two varieties that complement each other beautifully. In the typical Puglian style, Salento’s reds tend to be big and rich, with intense dark fruit flavours and spicy notes.

What to serve with Puglian wines?

Wines from the Puglia region are best paired with rich dishes – from hearty casseroles and roast or grilled meats, to Italian classics with tomato-based sauces.

If you want to be really authentic, you could partner a Puglian red with the local speciality, Panzerotti – a kind of deep-fried pasty filled with tomato and mozzarella.

Even better, thrill your guests with spaghetti all'assassina or ‘killer spaghetti.’ Though it might sound sinister, this unique Puglian dish gets its name from the way it is cooked. Instead of being boiled in water, the spaghetti is cooked directly in a tomato-based pasta sauce – so that it absorbs the flavour. The assassin name comes from the fact that the spaghetti is deliberately burned as part of the cooking process.

If you like the idea of pairing recommendations for all things Italian, check out our pasta and wine pairing guide.