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Are screw caps the future? Or are corks making a comeback? The great cork vs screw cap debate continues ...
Wine cork versus screw cap – which is better?
If, like me, you were a fan of the Breaking Bad spin-off ‘Better Call Saul’, you may remember the scene when arch-villain Gus Fring enjoys a bottle of Côte Rotie at a bar.
As the sommelier talks about the wine, Gus reverently sniffs the cork – a look of rare contentment on his face. Now whatever you think of cork sniffing (I’d rather smell the actual wine), I’m sure you’ll agree – the scene wouldn’t have worked with a screw cap.
But if uncorking the bottle plays such a big part in the wine’s romantic appeal, why have some of the world’s top wine producers started to use screw caps?
To answer that question – let’s take a look at each closure type in turn.
All you need to know about wine corks
Leaving aside synthetic alternatives, a natural wine cork is a stopper made from the bark of the cork oak tree,primarily found in Portugal and Spain.
In a tradition that goes back centuries, workers use axes to strip cork oaks of their bark to produce cork planks. They will only return to these newly stripped trees after nine years, when the bark has fully grown back. The process does not harm the trees – and in fact protects them, as they are valued for their bark and not their timber.
So, what are the pros and cons of the traditional cork bottle stopper?
The pros of wine corks
Aging potential: A natural cork allows a tiny bit of oxygen exposure, which can help the wine to soften and develop complex secondary flavours over time.
Sustainability: A cork oak captures and stores carbon dioxide over its 200-year lifespan. Plus, traditional cork forests provide habitats for some of the world’s most endangered species – such as the Iberian lynx.
The experience: There’s something uniquely satisfying about uncorking a bottle. Even the unmistakable ‘pop’ of the cork adds to the enjoyment and anticipation.
The cons of wine corks
Cork taint: When a wine is said to be ‘corked’, it doesn’t mean that there are bits of cork in the bottle. It means that a natural chemical compound called TCA, that’s present in the cork, has reacted with the wine, causing it to taste musty. But as we’ll see, recent advances have all but eliminated this problem.
Reliability: Allowing minute levels of oxygen exposure can lead to variation in wines that are cellared for a long time. This may be seen as a negative if you want every bottle of a specific wine and vintage to taste exactly the same.
Convenience and cost: Corks require a little more effort to open and are more expensive to produce than alternatives like screw caps.
All you need to know about screw caps
Screw caps (known in the trade as Stelvin closures) used to be associated with cheaper, mass-produced wines. But that all changed when winemakers in Australia and New Zealand began using them for premium wines in the 1970s and 1980s.
Top New Zealand Sauvignon producers, for example, saw screw caps as a way to reduce the risk of cork taint, while reliably sealing in those famously exuberant aromas. Even Penfolds (arguably Australia’s most prestigious winery) began using screw caps – offering their customers a choice of closure type with their high-end wines.
And it isn’t just southern hemisphere producers that are embracing Stelvin closures. As far back as 2005, Jean-Claude Boisset of Burgundy bottled half his Chambertin under screw cap.
So, what are the pros and cons of screw caps?
The pros of screw caps
Consistency: Screw caps provide a dependable seal and remove the risk of cork taint. This ensures that each bottle tastes as the winemaker intended.
Convenience: Screw caps are easy to open and reseal without needing a corkscrew. They travel well and are quicker to open (no need to worry about forgetting your corkscrew at the summer barbecue).
Cost-effectiveness: Cheaper to produce than traditional corks, screw caps can reduce the overall cost of wine.
The cons of screw caps
Risk of failure: There is a small risk that the seal on a screw cap can fail, resulting in an oxidised (and therefore spoiled) wine.
Perception: Some wine fans associate screw caps with cheaper wines, though this is changing as more high-quality wines are bottled using screw caps.
Environmental impact: Aluminium caps are recyclable, but the plastic liner is not – so screw caps do come with a small environmental cost.
So, which is better – wine cork or screw cap?
I put this question to Greg Roberts, our in-house head of wine education. His response? “I honestly don’t care whether my wine is sealed with a screw cap or a cork – it’s what’s in the glass that counts”. But of course, Greg doesn’t speak for everyone.
Here are a few things you might want to consider.
One of the main reasons that fine wine producers like Penfolds began using screw caps was the risk of cork taint. But this is far less common these days thanks to advances in technology. Peter Gago of Penfolds believes that the risk of cork taint is now close to that of mechanical failure in a screw cap. “Screw caps are not the future,” he concludes.
So, when it comes to quality – there’s little to choose between the two.
Personally, for white wines, especially aromatic styles like Sauvignon Blanc, I’m all for screw caps. I like the convenience of grabbing the bottle from the fridge door and just twisting off the cap before pouring. And of course, it’s just as easy to reseal it and pop it back into the fridge to keep it fresh.
For red wines – especially more traditional wines like Rioja or Bordeaux – I like a cork. There’s something about the ritual of pulling a cork that adds to the overall enjoyment of the wine. Plus of course, corks are a more environmentally friendly option – helping to sequester carbon and providing vital natural habitats.
About the author
Chris Larkin
A seasoned copywriter with over two decades experience, Chris has been part of the team since 2021. At Laithwaites HQ, you’ll find him either working on our latest catalogue or creating informative content for our website. Qualified to WSET Level 3 Wine, Chris is as geeky about wine as he is about copywriting. But when it comes to choosing a special bottle, he is a traditionalist, and loves a good Bordeaux or Mâcon Chardonnay.
