Domaine Servin Chablis Les Pargues 2021

Once itself an official Premier Cru vineyard, Les Pargues sits between Premiers Crus Montmains and Vaillons, the Chablis from which sets you back up to £30 a bottle. The difference is Les Pargues was abandoned during World War I and declassified – understandable then, but not now when you taste the quality. In the 1950s the Servin family began to restore their plot and now 50-year-old vines deliver wine of impressive concentration. Only local politics prevent it from being reinstated to its rightful status. Seventh-generation custodian François Servin now lavishes Premier Cru attention on his vineyard, ensuring wine with the honeyed minerality of great Chablis. Serve gently chilled with seafood or white meats. Open early or cellar.