Altos R Pigeage Graciano Rioja 2020

This is Jean-Marc Sauboua’s pure, ultra-rare Graciano. Never heard of it? Not surprising as, despite being Rioja’s most important grape variety about a century ago, today it makes up just 1% of plantings. Oz Clarke called it “far and away the most interesting vine in Rioja”. Jean-Marc is a great fan and doing his best to revive it. He only makes this flagship special cuvée in the best vintages, because Graciano is hard to ripen. Fruit from ancient bush vines, with yields of 10–15 hectolitres per hectare, accounts for amazing layers and length of flavour. Fermented slowly in open-top wooden fermenters, with once-a-day plunge down (pigeage), then with 20 months in all-new French oak, this is a powerful red. For now, decant early. Or keep.