Spain's fashionable Albariño is as beguilingly aromatic as Viognier yet with "a fresh seabreeze, acid minerality to match the grapefruit and apple blossom scent and yeasty softness of texture" (Oz Clarke, Grapes and Wines). If it sounds delicious, it is, which explains why Rias Baixas in the northwest has gradually expanded since being awarded its DO in 1988. This rich, complex example is from one of the grape's best producers, who wanted to show just how well it ages. It's so much in demand, it doesn't often get the chance. So they kept back a few cases from the original wine we ordered and this honeyed, ginger and apricot scented white is the remarkable outcome. A top choice with seafood, roast whites meats or even spicy Asian cuisine.