Barbaresco is one of the finest gems of Italy, almost as famous as Piedmont's other star, Barolo. Both use pure Nebbiolo, the most revered grape of this region, that takes time to mature and show its amazingly complex, perfumed character. This is a rewarding 2005 from fourth generation cousins Paolo and Guido Sartirano, whose family estate was founded in 1871, along with a handful of beautifully situated vineyards. Riserva wines must have at least four years' ageing in barrel. This red can boast 50 months' maturation in large, older, Slavonian oak casks, more to flatter the Nebbiolo character than to add oak notes, plus eight years in bottle. Open early and decant to let the wine fully open out. A classic with wild boar or beef ragù.