Bob Oatley is an Admiral's Cup winner, British Empire Medal holder, commodities trader turned cattle rancher and, for decades, owner of the renowned Rosemount winery. These days he and his son Sandy produce wines under his eponymous label, each one designed to show off the grape and its provenance. They have impressed critic James Halliday, who has awarded the winery a full 5 Stars. Winemaker Larry Cherubino has done a beautiful job with this silky, elegant Syrah (note Syrah, not Shiraz which would imply a heftier style). Selecting grapes from Western Australia's highly regarded Great Southern region, he has carefully vinified the wine, finishing it in French oak to lend it elegance and finesse. Serve with roast lamb with garlicky potatoes.