Pinot Grigio has staged something of a coup in fridge doors and dining tables the world over. Truly outstanding examples like this are rare, however. Il Papavero is from Scipione Giuliani, whose dedication to tracking down the finest parcels of fruit throughout Italy sets him apart from his winemaking peers. He discovered the grapes for this wine a few years back, in high hillside vineyards near the coast in Sicily. He's found nothing to beat them since. The wine's a moreish mix of rich pear and citrus flavours and has both ripeness and bracing freshness thanks to the location of the vines. Sunshine and sea breezes are the perfect grape growing conditions for which Sicily has become famous. A delight with white meats or seafood risotto.