Smooth, plummy Montepulciano is at its best grown in the Abruzzo region, on Italy's Adriatic coast, where it makes deliciously supple fruity reds, and a few ageworthy ones, too. The lighter rosato style usually goes under the name Cerasuolo unless, like this, it is declassified and sold for a comparative song. Strict DOC laws limit the amount of wine that can be sold under that name, so any surplus must masquerade as vino da tavola. Our Buyer is wise to such antics and managed to snap this up before anyone else. Farinelli is made from hand picked, concentrated grapes grown on 30 to 40 year old vines high in the Abruzzo hills. Served chilled, it is an uplifting apéritif, and delicious with cicchetti (Venetian-style tapas) or prawn risotto.