Château Cheval Blanc's official classification is confirmed by quality and reputation: it shares top place in Saint Emilion with Château Ausone. Yet there is nothing quite like it. The vineyards are as close to Pomerol as a Saint Emilion can be yet, unlike its peers, the wine is historically dominated by Cabernet Franc, rather than Merlot. It is often therefore a blockbuster "of heroic style and proportions" (Hugh Johnson). The 1961 vintage for example is still going strong, promising a long life ahead. Pierre Lurton has been running the property flawlessly since 1991. His 2009 gives Merlot the upper hand (60%) but that heady Cabernet Franc structure and perfume is as evident as ever. Decant and serve with magret de canard or rib of beef.