As he celebrates 25 years as a Master of Wine, Norrel Robertson tells us about the 2023 vintage release of Sierra de los Sueños. Having just safely gathered in all the grapes for the 2025 vintage, he gives us a snapshot of the year so far too.  

2025 – a big sigh of relieve as all the grapes for the vintage are in 

The overall picture for 2025 – the year started well with some welcome winter rains. Indeed, rainfall has exceeded the annual average for the region with 350mm falling from January to September.  The wet weather continued into spring with hail storms taking out around 35% of production from April through to July.  A significant amount. 

The local folklore says that once a hail storm has swept an area earlier in the year  the subsequent ones tend to keep following the same route as storms build throughout the season. It’s a constant worry for growers and one that proved more than just hearsay.  

“Some vineyards were hit 5 to 6 times so, come harvest time, those blocks had nothing to pick. Thankfully our vineyards are split between five villages so we got off lightly compared to some of our neighbours.” 

It’s too early to talk about quality for 2025 but we will update you as soon as news is in. Meanwhile, Norrel and his small team are working hard to vinify the reduced crop of grapes.  

Organic certification 

“We had our first audit for organic certification during harvest this year and we will eventually receive certification in 2028, although we have been practising organic since 2014. We have also legalised our well which means we can start to plan new vineyard plantings as well as the winery build with our own water.” 

2025 marks the 25th anniversary of Norrel becoming a Master of Wine. In September 2000, on Norrel’s 31st birthday in fact, Sharon received the news via a letter from the Institute of Masters of Wine. She was 8 months pregnant with their first son. That was before both the internet and smart  phones  were the norm, and Norrel was away, busy with vintage, doing debourbage on a tank of Sauvignon Blanc in the Loire Valley. Quite a birthday present, especially as he not only passed, but did so with flying colours, winning the Robert Mondavi award for best theory paper overall.  

“A few more vintages, continents and kilos from the Mediterranean diet later, we are so proud to be where we are ... in the heart of our vineyards finishing a smaller but great quality harvest.” 

Now for the wine which will arrive with you this October. 

The 2023 vintage  

“In Calatayud, we had a very dry start to 2023: rainfall was very scarce for the first five months of the year and temperatures were high. Reservoir levels across Spain were incredibly low going into the summer, farmers (after irrigating in March!) were restricted on irrigation and, travelling across Spain, we were shocked by how dry the countryside was. Then June arrived with day after day of storms, bringing hailstones and flooding to surrounding regions. We have been lucky, suffering some minor hail damage but we are more than happy to have the water – 100 to 150mm falling in 10-15 days – for the long term health of the vines. In Penedès, they received less rain and many vineyards perished.” 

“July brought a short heatwave from the 15th to 20th, but events in August were even more severe with a run of many days over 35 degrees. Storms over the 1st to 3rd of September brought some more respite and we received up to another 70mm in the run up to harvest. More unfortunate producers from Toledo, south of Madrid towards the east, received catastrophic levels of rain and wind which laid waste to many vineyards.” 

The winemaking for 2023 

“We tended to extract a little bit less with lighter wetting of the cap and no pigeage (plunging down of the cap of skins to extract tannins, colour and flavour). The alcohol is lighter in 2023 as a result of an extremely hot August, where photosynthesis was actually blocked, paradoxically resulting in lower alcohol. People often equate heat with concentration but it is not always the case, as this shows.”  

“I would characterise the style of many 2023 reds as being lower in alcohol, quite forward and perfumed with monte bajo / garrigue notes, probably as a result of a very hot and dry August. The wines we have made this year are very pretty – delicious now, rather than for long ageing.” 

“Our oak regime was similar to other vintages – approximately 18 months in a mix of one to five-year-old French oak puncheons and demi-muid and also the inclusion of some Austrian-coopered Slavonian oak from Stockinger (the same cooper favoured by Jean-Marc in Bordeaux’s La Clarière).” 

These are all large format barrels, which lend less oak spice flavour and are used more for a steady, gentle oxidation that lends complexity to the wine, whilst not losing freshness. 

Below is Norrel’s tasting note for 2023, which he describes as more restrained and fresher than previous vintages.  

“Bright ruby red with a subtle garnet rim leading to an intense aroma of cherry liqueur, dried herbs, and high altitude freshness, with subtle undertones of thyme, lavender, spice and earth adding depth. 

The palate is juicy and lively, with flavours of black cherry, ripe plum and a touch of black tea while the mid-palate is structured yet elegant, with creamy  tannins that build to a long, refined finish marked by freshness and minerality.” 

Norrel’s top dishes for the delectable Sierra de los Sueños – roast lamb, tagine, lamb chops and Middle Eastern spiced dishes. Enjoy your bottles.