Chat with Vinny
Barbara was just saying how happy and unstressed our winemaker son, Henry, looks just now. Mentioned it to Kaye, his wife who said that was because he’s escaped their office and is out pruning every day.
I’ve never pruned vines. I wouldn’t be any good at it. No-one would actually let me, anyway, and the idea of being out in the cold all day does not appeal.
But vineyard work during winter is more vital that at any other season; there’s a whole range of tasks essential for maintaining the health of the vines and the quality of future wines. Any gardener knows this period is crucial for setting the stage for the upcoming growing season.
Pruning is the most significant vineyard activity … vital to control the shape and size of the vine, ensuring, in summer, good sunlight exposure and air circulation. It is also necessary to manage the yield of the vine, which directly affects the quality of the grapes. Skilled people carefully select and cut away unwanted shoots on the vine.
There are people these days – making cheap wine – who just run a chainsaw along the vines but that’s doesn’t make for quality. A skilled pruner looks at each vine and has to make several hard decisions all at once. They must think ahead, maybe several years; they must assess apparent health; restrict the vine’s naturally exuberant growth by counting buds on the stems. It’s mentally very taxing and requires a deep understanding of vine biology and a clear view of the desired outcome for the next harvest. Different winter skill levels are why some people produce better grapes than others and make much better wine.
Winter is the time when farmers put back into the soil what the harvest has taken out. Compost, manure and any minerals that seem low. It’s also a time for vine health assessments ... inspecting vines for signs of disease or pest damage. They may apply tonics, treatments or preventative measures to strengthen and protect the vines, such as – preferably organic – fungicides or pest control solutions like using good bugs to eat bad bugs, so keeping in mind the environmental impact and sustainability. There used to be a lot of ploughing but many – including us – now employ a no-till policy. Vineyards used to be bare brown in winter but now they’re green.
But the greenery mustn’t overwhelm the vines. Henry’s righthand vineyard man, Matt, has built a machine that in one pass (fewer passes avoids compressing the soil) bends and breaks – but doesn’t cut through – the existing greenery, turning it into mulch, and at the same time seeds next year’s greenery growth. Clever lad, our Matt.
Barbara at Wyfold, on the other hand, is using small sheep to keep the greenery down and fertilise the soil. Both systems are very ‘eco’.
Winter in the cellar
In the cellar, winter is a time for cleaning and maintaining winemaking equipment. Tanks, barrels, and other tools are thoroughly cleaned to prevent contamination. Wine is a living thing; it can get sick. It's also an opportunity to repair or replace any damaged kit.
In the cellar, the Bang-Bang-Crash of harvest, with grapes pouring into the cellar, is over, peace has descended and the focus shifts to the quiet aging and blending of wines. Winemakers assess the wines from the previous vintage(s), deciding what’s ready for bottling or needs more time to age. Blending is an art, where wines from different barrels or varietals are combined to achieve the desired flavour profile. Then they must bottle … a pretty big task that has to be done immaculately.
Barrel care is done in winter. Winemakers inspect barrels for any signs of wear or contamination. Some barrels might need re-charring or repairs. The humidity and temperature of the cellar are closely monitored to ensure optimal aging conditions for the wine.
Winter is also a period for planning the next growing season. This includes ordering supplies, planning vineyard expansions or changes, and training youngsters. Keen vineyard managers and winemakers use this time to study the latest advancements in viticulture and oenology, attending workshops, exhibitions and courses to improve their skills and knowledge.
There’s an assumption that winemaking just goes on as it always has for centuries. It doesn’t ... it changes every year because the drive behind all good winemakers is: “How can I make a better wine”. That never goes away … because perfection is always to be strived for but can never be attained.
Winter is also the best time for wine buyers to visit … to get in early to buy the best barrels of wine. In my time, I’ve almost always done my rounds in winter. And have such happy memories of chatting to growers out in frosty vineyards, me, huddling beside their fire of pruning offcuts in a rusty wheelbarrow, then going down old, worn steps into a cellar that seems warm by comparison, and tasting.
You should try it sometime. Summer is hot and crowded. Winter is clear roads, with growers … also restaurants and hotels … really happy to see you. Cheap ferries too.
Pictured: Jean-Pierre Seguinel with Tony and Henry Laithwaite. Jean-Pierre was the previous owner of Henry's vineyard in France.
About the author
Tony Laithwaite
Founder of Laithwaites in 1969 and co-founder of The Sunday Times Wine Club in 1973, Tony Laithwaite has, during his nearly 60-year career, led the way in many fields. He has discovered new wine regions, founded the ‘Flying Winemaker’ movement, been the first or one of the first to import wines from … Bulgaria, Moldova, Australia, New Zealand, Czech Republic – the list is long.
From the start, Tony has wanted his customers to share the magic of wine. He’s achieved that largely through the written word, the stories … and occasionally, for real, at wine shows.
He regards as one of his greatest achievements the championing of Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux by buying his own château … proving its wines to be at least equal to Saint-Émilion Grands Crus Classés next door.
