Chat with Vinny
The Year that was – 2023, in retrospect
2023 began at the French Ambassador’s place (name drop) for the awarding of the new Chevaliers de l’Ordre du Mérite Agricole…we really should have something like this to big up the UK’s good farmers. The French practically worship anyone who can squash a grape or milk a cow …
March
Then on to Cabrières village, near Beziers in the Languedoc, to taste the new Loubissou pink wine and see its vineyard which, with customers’ help, we had hoped – and in fact did – to save. Meanwhile, on the airwaves, our RedHeads eco-winery in Australia’s Barossa sends news of harvest. All is good. Wish I could be there to see it firsthand, but long-haul flights are now banned by my new bosses; our progeny.
April
Then it’s to Bordeaux and La Clarière with my wife, Barbara, to taste the new wine and fill a massive skip with accumulated junk from our nearby house, Le Bourg. We are thinking of letting it out to Confrère customers, and don’t want to be embarrassed!
May
After three ‘dry’ years, our Vintage Festival was back in May, bigger and better, and in a different venue, London Olympia. It was a great and wonderfully happy two-day reunion of customers and winegrowers.
June
I was back to Bordeaux in June, to meet up with this year’s visiting group of Confrères. Very lovely to see such an enthusiastic, wine-loving bunch of customers … as ever.
July
Back home, we find Barbara’s vineyard shed had been crowbarred into and two new tractors stolen. One is found hidden in woods nearby, thanks to its nifty tracker. A sad state of affairs.
Then the government slapped us with the biggest duty increase we’ve ever seen …
August
Back again to La Bourg with Barbara for a summer ‘break’ with loads of family and friends. Took visiting grandkids to see the Battle of Castillon re-enactment. History, but with lots of bangs and slaughter. … we always lose. Think they were impressed.
Then we went up to Durham to see the even greater Kynren re-enactment of 2,000 years of English history … all in 90 minutes. We usually win … Love these big outdoor shows!
A short trip to visit malt distilleries on Speyside. I took three old – very old – schoolmates. Thankfully, and unusually, they behave themselves. We are particularly well looked after by the Glenfiddich people … still family owned … and it shows.
September
Early that month, to France for the start of the La Clarière vintage in Castillon, Côtes de Bordeaux. Our bountiful harvest was in startling contrast to most of our neighbours who were badly hit by the mildiou brought on by the excessive rain and summer heat. Our team had been super diligent and kept our fruit healthy. But, having been alternately fried and soaked, they insist we put a roof over our outdoor tanks for next year. I guess we must show our gratitude that way.
Staying in France, we do a little tour of France’s southwest vineyards – to Gascony and especially to the dear ladies who make our Jurançon at Clos de la Vierge. I’m working on doing a regular Gascony mixed case, because not enough people know these delightful and very varied wines.
Continuing the trip, Jean-Marc drives me down to meet our other buyer-winemaker, Mark Hoddy, and visit the Cabrières folk again. Everyone congratulating everyone else. Customers have helped us raise enough to buy the Loubissou vineyard and we immediately lease it out, rent free, to young Lucie and Brice, who are already in there, working the vineyard. The new vintage is superb and great plans are hatched. We seem to have adopted this lovely little Asterix-type village. It boasts a cooperative with just 10 winegrowers – they are the opposite end of the scale to Grand Château winemakers. They suggest a little shed in the middle of the vineyard to accommodate UK supporters … for picnics. Casual style!
October
It’s back to do vintage at Windsor, Wyfold and Harrow & Hope … our English vineyard projects. Barbara cooks huge meals for all the helpers … I’m only entrusted with washing sticky grape baskets.
This really is our lucky vintage … another bountiful English harvest, brought in just before the rains, and the arrival of our sixth grandchild. Welcome Sebastian Laithwaite.
The same week, last one in October, we accompany Barbara to Buckingham Palace to collect her CBE from Princess Anne. She was a bag of nerves, like I had been in 2019. I had got all muddled before royalty … she did too. We are now known by our sons as the ‘CBEebies’.
November
The following week, we celebrate 50 years of The Sunday Times Wine Club with a banquet at The Vintners Hall … the first time we’ve ever met the editor and all the senior people together. We served a LOT of wine. Everyone seemed very happy.
So phew, a ‘recovery trip’ to Madeira to swim, walk the winding Levada water-channels, eat grilled meat hanging on swords and drink good Sercial.
December
Then back to the Midi with three of our young wine-writers, me playing teacher, watching them get fired-up by the wild countryside, the villages and vineyards, wineries and our hardworking wine-grower friends in my favourite wine region.
Then it’s Christmas Carols in Oxford Cathedral and soon, New Year. Then, fingers crossed, it all starts again.
A ‘Ding-dong Merrily’ Christmas and grateful thanks to you all for your wonderful loyalty.
Tony CBE on behalf of Barbara CBE, all the family and our big wine family.
