Farnese Pecorino 2006

When our old friends at Italy's fabulous Farnese estate decided to make a rare Pecorino of outstanding quality, they did so with the same gusto that transformed their Trebbiano white into an International Wine Challenge 'Wine of the Year'.

Pecorino is a subtle, characterful grape - not to be confused with the ancient Tuscan cheese of the same name - that is something of an endangered species in the big brand wine world.

By reducing yields and working on selected vineyard sites the team have produced a delicate but concentrated white, with just a little oak for added complexity. It did the trick too - picking up a coveted Gran Mezzione at Vinitaly and a London Gold in its first year. This follow-up vintage is even better with a Gold and Pecorino Trophy from the International Wine Challenge.

Pale yellow with glints of fresh green. There's a tantalising minerality on the nose leading to a concentrated, crisp palate with real depth and class - no more than you'd expect from Farnese - plus a lovely long finish.