When we refurbished the 19th-century cellar on the Dordogne near Saint Emilion, it was to make classic wines like this at affordable prices. Le Chai au Quai winemaker Jean-Marc Sauboua trained at Château Haut Brion in the heart of Pessac Léognan (the top Graves appellation) so took an almost evangelical interest in this special Bordeaux Blanc. Sourcing top quality grapes from the Entre Deux Mers villages of Sainte Radegonde and Sauveterre, he fermented the Sauvignon in oak and the Semillonin stainless steel for flavour, complexity, weight and exquisite balance. Very much Pessac Léognan in style, but with a fresh, modern twist and much more modest price tag. Chill gently and serve with salmon en croute or sauced white meats.