Gently sparkling Cremant de Bourgogne signals the start to a fine evening. Lovely light bubbles, rich, citrussy fruit. Small domaine Chablis (so steely fresh) and crisply elegant Kiwi Sauvignon (from fo rmer Cloudy Bay winemaker Eveline Fraser) shine for the whites. And of course luxury demands top vintage Saint-Emilion for the claret, a sumptuous, velvety Rioja Reserva (for that rich complexity only extra ageing delivers) and a top-notch, cherry rich Montepulciano from southern Tuscany. All presented in a smart wooden gift box.