Château de Puligny may be the biggest house in the village, but don't expect a castle or a mansion - or even an ancient history. What matters is the château's vines - in Puligny Montrachet, in Meursault, in Pommard and in Monthélie - and its wine director, Etienne de Montille, who has transformed Château de Puligny from carthorse to racehorse.The Monthélie vineyard in particular was planted in the 1980s by a famous name in Meursault, André Ropiteau, on slopes facing east over the tiny village. In due course the grapes turned out to be first rate, with a fresh fruit character that calls for little, if any, new oak."If you want to memorise the eager perfume of Pinot, this glass flaunts it" (Hugh Johnson). A must with salmon with fennel.