Bollinger remains a family company and is run by a great-grandson of founder Ghislain de Montgolfier. The winemaker is Alsace-born Mathieu Kauffmann. The non-vintage Special Cuvée comprises 60% Pinot Noir, 25% Chardonnay and 15% Pinot Meunier. 10% 'reserve wine' - up to 15 years old - adds complexity.Madame Lily Bollinger, who died in 1971, was the wine's greatest international ambassador. Once, when asked how she enjoyed her Champagne, she replied, "I drink it when I'm happy and when I'm sad. Sometimes I drink it when I'm alone. When I have company I consider it obligatory. I trifle with it if I'm not hungry and drink it when I am. Otherwise, I never touch it - unless I'm thirsty." Serve in tall flutes on its own or with fine canapés.